10 Things To Consider Before Planning And Installing A

Whether you want to install a new bathroom or make improvements to an existing one there are some decisions you need to make and challenges to overcome. A bathroom must be tailored to your requirements and every plan will vary depending on the planner's needs.



1. Seek professional advice before planning a bathroom. You may need to consider local water regulations, existing plumbing facilities and the way your house is constructed.



2. Define the role and requirements of the new bathroom. Planning a bathroom involves more than the positioning of basic fixtures such as the bath, basin and toilet. Make sure your plan allows for plenty of floor for wall space and for extras such as towel rail, mirror and storage.



3. Decide if you need to make any changes to existing services and whether structural work is required. Measure up and note the position of the existing services, windows and doors and work out the plan to get the bathroom fixtures where you want them. You’ll also need to decide if you need to move any doors, windows or walls and whether you need to make changes to the electricity wiring, water and drains.



4. Draw out the bathroom area on graph paper and work out how best to divide up the bathroom for different purposes or tasks. You may need to consider whether to use double or sliding doors, archways or curtains.



5. Ensure that you have enough space to accommodate your chosen fittings as well as enough room to move them into position. Think about how much room will be required for toiletries, storing towels, medicines etc.



6. Build in utilities such as heating, ventilation and lighting. These are important to ensure that your bathroom has enough light and works efficiently.



7. Make provisions for future plumbing and allow for access to potential trouble spots such as the shower pump and boxed-in toilet cisterns. If possible, fit removable panels instead of sealing these utilities behind fixed walls.



8. Find out exactly what sort of fittings you require and whether they will be suitable for the intended location.



9. Think about your style preferences in terms of the fit and flow with the rest of the house. There are products to meet most requirements or designs. Consider the trade off between price and good quality, and look out for longer warranties and guarantees.



10. Consider traffic patterns in terms of how many people will be using the bathroom and how often. Also, if people of varying ages use the bathroom, you may need to choose fittings that cater for different age groups in your household such as a slide shower so you can adjust the height of the spray.



Taking time to plan ahead can help to translate your ideas into reality and ensure that you end up with your ideal bathroom.


Copyright ฉ 2005. Bridget Mwape writes for DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/ which features how-to articles and products to help you with your DIY and home improvement projects. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable.

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10 Quick Ways to Change Your Fire-less Fireplace from a Blac

Everyone loves a fireplace aglow with a roaring fire or flickering embers. But your fireplace need not be a gaping empty hole--like a picture frame without a picture—-those times you choose not to have a fire.

As you look over these ideas, you’ll recognize any that will need to be adapted if you have young children or pets with access to the fireplace.

• Ivy Basket: A lovely basket filled with a thriving ivy plant adds a touch of nature to your room. Let the ivy trail onto the hearth to keep the look informal.
  

• Autumn Vegetables: In the fall, create an arrangement of pumpkins, gourds, Indian corn, and silk leaves in autumn colors. Set some of your vegetables on upturned wooden bowls to vary their heights.
  

• Pine Cones: An arrangement of pinecones of varying sizes, displayed in a large basket, wooden bowl, firewood basket, or even an old washtub works well for a causal country d้cor. Scatter some of the pinecones around the container, too.
  

• Pottery Jug & Dried Plants: For another country autumn look, display a large pottery jug in your fireplace, and around it make a loose arrangement of intertwined, dried grapevine. Mingle some other clusters of dried plants into the grapevine. Dried baby’s breath, for example, keeps the look open and airy.
  

• Poinsettias: Blooming poinsettias, especially ones so large they practically fill the fireplace, look stunning during the winter. Depending on your room, the white ones may be even more dramatic than the red ones. Put smaller potted poinsettias on the hearth.
  

• Tropical Vignette: Let your fireplace provide the frame for a tropical retreat vignette when summer rolls around. With a piece of driftwood, display large seashells and colorful glass fishing balls—some perched on the driftwood or on white candle holders to give them height.
  

The truly venturesome might set these goodies on a base of rippling white sand.

• Party Balloons: Party time? Inflate balloons in keeping with your party’s color scheme. Load the fireplace full of the balloons (not helium ones!), using the fireplace screen or glass doors to hold the balloons in place.
  

Tie the ribbons of three helium balloons to a heavy object, such as a wrapped brick wrapped as a “present,” at either side of the fireplace.

• New Year’s Vignette: When it’s time to ring in New Year, first tape two taut strings inside your fireplace, above where they will be visible. Run each one from a front corner to the opposite back corner, so the strings form an X.
  

Unroll one-fourth inch wide white, silver, and black party streamers and drape them over the strings so they dangle down at varying lengths into the fireplace. Next, unroll more streamers and casually spread a deep pile onto the fireplace floor.

Now add the appropriate props: champagne bottles and glasses, party hats and horns, a large clock set at almost midnight, or metallic numerals of the New Year. To raise some object, set them on boxes hidden under the streamers.

• Fresh Flowers: There’s no time of year when a large bouquet of fresh flowers set in your fireplace won’t look great. Forget the silk ones, though. Let’s not kid ourselves that our guests will continue to assume that they are real when they’ve seen them time and again.
  

• Fireplace Candelabra: But, if you’re like many of us who feel that a fireplace just needs the flicker of fire to look its best, consider a fireplace candelabra, a candle holder designed specially for your fireplace. You can have a fireplace aglow with light without a single stick of firewood in sight or the expense of gas logs.
  

Some fireplace candelabras are slim enough to fit in front of your existing andirons and grate while others are make to fill your empty fireplace. Select candles for your fireplace candelabra in colors that accent your room or set a holiday’s or party’s color scheme.

Plus, you can even match the fireplace candles’ scents to the season or event! Think, for example, pumpkin and spice for Thanksgiving, vanilla or apple spice to elicit a “homey” feel, and lemon for a crisp summer scent.

So, your fire-less fireplace need not be a Black Hole after all! You can make your fireplace, the natural focal point of your room, worth looking at even when there are no burning logs.

Susan Penney appreciates simple ways to make our homes renewing spaces for our families. She invites you to visit http://www.FireplaceMall.com for fireplace accessories to serve your fire-less or your fire-filled fireplace.

fireplacemall@earthlink.net

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10 Types of Hammers...Which One Is Right For You?

On your next project, will you be using the right hammer for the job? Save yourself some time and be sure to use the right one.

Hammers come in many different shapes and forms. Using the wrong hammer can make a project go sour real quick. It's a good idea to know what hammers are available and when to use them.

Sledgehammer: One of the big daddy's of the hammer family. This hammer is probably the biggest hammer you'll use. This hammer is mainly used on outdoor projects. These hammers are designed to deliver heavy force. To use the big daddy of hammers you're going to need some strength and good aim. Toes and fast moving sledgehammers do not make a good mix! There are smaller hand sized sledgehammer's available as well.

Mason's Hammer: Great for working on brick, concrete or mortar. This hammer is often used for cutting and setting brick. It can be used as a hammer or a chisel when laying brick.

Mallets: Mallets are a great hammer to use when restraint is needed. These hammers are also a good replacement for steel hammers when concerned about marring a surface. Great for driving chisels and for woodworking. The heads or mallets can be made of different materials, usually wooden, rubber or plastic.

Deadblow: Another good hammer to use when concerned about marring a surface. The deadblow is designed to reduce and eliminate bouncing on contact. Most deadblows are made of plastic.

Framing Hammer: A long handled hammer normally used by carpenters to frame houses. It has a milled face to reduce slipping off nails on contact. You can find smooth faced framing hammers as well which are often used for decking. A framing hammer is fairly heavy to drive nails easier.

Claw Hammer: Very similar to a framing hammer but is much lighter. This hammer is a toolbox must and is more of a general use hammer. When using a claw hammer try and grip the base of the handle rather than the head. This will give you more accuracy and leverage.

Tack Hammer: Designed mainly to use on nailing tacks. This hammer is usually small in size and fairly light, about 5 Oz. Most tack hammers are magnetized to pick up tacks that have fallen.

Ball Peen Hammer: This hammer is mainly used for cold chisels and forming metal. As it's name describes, it has one side with a ball on it and one side with a smooth face. There are many different sizes of ball pein hammers to choose from.

Roofing Hammer: This hammer is really a job specific tool. The face is always milled, often square, and the peen will be either a standard sharp hatchet for trimming cedar shingles or equipped with a tiny razor blade for cutting asphalt shingles.

Drywall Hammer: Used to install drywall. It has a pronounced mushroom shape to the face and an odd, dull hatchet-shaped peen. The peen's flat shape helps somewhat when beating nails inside corners. The head of the drywall hammer is angled upward for extra reach. The face is lightly milled and sometimes also truncated across the very top of the head for driving nails near the ceiling.

Always wear safety glasses when hammering as broken pieces of nails can become dangerous shrapnel. It also may not be a bad idea to wear gloves on the first day you work with a new hammer. It can really help prevent getting blisters.

You may reprint this article in it's original form provided the bio line is attached.

About The Author


Christian Krohn

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8 Simple Tips to Keep Your Lawn Mower Running

1. If you have a non-electric mower which runs on petrol or gas have a look in the instruction manual to find out how to check and change the oil. Check the oil level often, add more oil when necessary and change it when it’s dirty.

2. Store the lawn mower in a shed or in some kind of protective environment so that it isn’t sitting in the elements.

3. Check your lawn mower to see if it contains instructions for sharpening your mower blade. Some lawn mowers do encourage you to sharpen the blade and others do not. If the manual does direct you to sharpen the blade then do so frequently.

4. The best time to mow your lawn is after any dew from the night before has had time to evaporate. This means that the late afternoon is usually better than the morning as the grass cuts better when it’s dry and the humidity has left the air. Also, wet grass can cause problems with the mower and generally just makes a bigger mess!

5. Try mowing your lawn in different directions each time you mow. This will help keep your lawn healthy and will reduce the likelihood of any patterns forming over multiple sessions.

6. Make sure you keep the fuel and oil that you pour into your mower as free of foreign objects as possible. No matter what your daughter insists, her bottle of moisturizer added to the gas tank will probably not make your lawn mower run any better.

7. Take the time to clean the grass off the underside of the mower from time to time. Make sure the mower is off before you attempt to clean the underside. Make sure if you are going anywhere near the blade you disconnect the spark plug wire first.

8. Clean the air intake for the mower. Combustion (petrol or gas) engines need some type of air intake to run correctly and if the air intake on your mower is clogged with grass then the mower won’t run at peak efficiency.

About the Author

Lawn Domain offers free information, articles and tips on how to keep your lawns, mowers and tractors in tip top condition. Find out more at http://www.lawndomain.com

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10 Tips for Working With a Contractor

This is the year you're going all out. You're going to build a deck, add a porch, erect a gazebo or lay a patio. You've done the research. It's well within your capability and you're looking forward to the satisfaction of creating a structure of beauty.

Or not. Yes -- you'd like to proceed with an outdoor structure but for you, it isn't a do-it-yourself project. How can you find the right person to do it for you? Here are 10 tips for hiring and working with a contractor.

1. Plan your project carefully. Clip pictures, make sketches, write a description. This will help you accurately convey to the contractor what you want the finished product to be.

2. Make a list of contractors. Ask your neighbors or friends for the names of reputable tradesmen. Contact material suppliers -- lumberyards, for example -- and ask for recommendations.

3. Get at least three written bids for the project, but don't give in to the temptation to automatically accept the lowest bid. A higher bid may be worth the price in better materials, workmanship and reliability. If you get a very low bid, the contractor may have made a mistake or forgotten to bid on everything you wanted. If they have deliberately low-bid, they may use cheaper materials or take shortcuts to make a profit.

4. Many states and provinces require registration and/or licensing. For the USA, www.nationalcontractors.com provides a starting point for your state and type of construction. Click on Verify Contractors License. If licences are required in your jurisdiction, be certain to ask to see your contractor's licences and be sure that it's not expired.

5. Ask for references and then check them out. Look at the projects and ask the previous clients if they are satisfied with the quality of work done, if it was started and completed on schedule and if it is complete.

6. Get a signed, written contract and be sure you understand it. The Construction Contractors Board of Oregon claims that the single biggest cause of homeowner-contractor disputes is the written contract: not having one, having a poor one, or having one everyone ignores. A good contract should include:

• The company name, address (not a post office box) & phone number, the name of the builder, contractor and licence number, if applicable
  

• A detailed project description
  

• A materials list
  

• A statement that all necessary permits and inspections are the responsibility of the contractor
  

• Starting and completion dates
  

• Warranties of workmanship, the length of the warranty, and specifically what's covered and what's not
  

• Contractor's guarantee that he carries liability insurance and worker's compensation coverage
  

• A statement that clean-up will be done by the contractor
  

• The total price and payment schedule
  
  
  
  • Be wary of hourly, time and materials or cost-plus pricing where the final price is not determined until completion of the project. Although it may seem higher, a fixed price may give you the best protection and price.
    

  • Be cautious about upfront payments for more than 15% of the contract price.
    

  • The schedule and criteria for each instalment should be clearly defined in the contract.
    

  • Any instalments should be not be required on a certain date, but correlated to work completion.
    

  • Do not pay cash. A reputable builder will ask for a check.
    

  
  

7. Make any changes to the project in writing with a "work order change" to avoid misunderstandings and surprises.

8. Keep pets and children away from the construction site. This will ensure not only their safety, but also that of the workers. In addition, it helps keep the project on schedule.

9. Inspect the work regularly.

10. Pay directly and promptly according to the contract.

Above all, you should feel comfortable communicating with your contractor. If you sense he is being evasive when you are getting a quote, it won't get any better during the construction period. Find someone you understand and who understands you, and who is open and forthright.

Working with a contractor takes a little preparation, but following these steps is well worth it. Are you looking forward to your new outdoor space?

Debbie Rodgers owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Visit her on the web at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space”. Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com

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10 Tips for Successful Rose Planting

Planting roses isn't actually complicated, as long as you have some good advice and tips to start with...

1. Check with your local gardening center or florist for the best type of roses to grow in you climate. If you are a novice, you should look fo? disease resistant types of roses because they require a lot less maintenance.

2. When planting roses, you want to pick a spot that is well lit in the morning. You also want an area that is sunlit for at least 6 hours a day. Roses need a great deal of light if they are to grow properly. If you live in a really hot climate though, you'll probably get the best results by not planting your roses in direct sunlight.

3. Pick an area that has plenty of well drained soil. Great soil has a PH level where the amount of acid in the soil is at about 5.5-7.0. You can get a testing kit for your soil at any garden center.

4. Organic matter like manure or lime helps to nourish the roots of your roses. You should soak the roots in water or puddle clay for many minutes, and cut off any root's ends that are broken.

5. The first 3-4 weeks after planting your roses, you should water them often. Usually this is when the top 2 inches of soil is dry. Roses need a lot of hydration and food to remain healthy.

6. Four weeks after planting, you should start soaking the bed every 2 weeks or so. You should do this in the morning for the best results.

7. Begin fertilization approximately 3 months after planting. Use 3-6 inches of mulch to control the moisture, temperature, and to stops weeds from coming up. Mulch also helps to lock in the vital nutrients your roses need in order to remain healthy.

8. Planting in the Spring is the best.

9. You want to plant your roses in an area that is well circulated with air. Your roses will not grow in an enclosed or tight area.

10. Dig a hole that is two times bigger than the amount of space that your roses take up. It makes it easier to plant them and creates a spaced area for them to grow with freedom. Poor circulation for your roses can cause fungal diseases. Using a larger hole also makes it easier for you to pull them up later and pot them if you’d like.

© 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com

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This article is provided courtesy of http://www.Garden-Source.com - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.

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10 Tips On Cutting Plywood Correctly

10 Tips On Cutting Plywood Correctly

1. Avoid Cross Cutting – Plywood tends to chip the most when cut
across its width (grain). Cutting along the length of the wood
will help to reduce chipping.


2. Use the Right Blade – Special blades are manufactured for
different cutting jobs. The number of teeth, width, angle, and
rake of the blade all impact the cut. Choose a blade that best
matches your specific cutting situation.


3. Circular Saw – cut with the “best face” down.


4. Table Saw – cut with the “best face” up.


5. Score the Cut First – Run the plywood through the saw removing
only a minimal amount of wood. The next cut will leave a cleaner
cut.


6. Masking Tape – Put masking tape over the cut line to help keep the
fibers on the edge from pulling up.


7. Backing Panel – Attach a backing panel with strong double stick
tape. The backer board will take the brunt of the damage.


8. Use a Router – A router fitted with a straight bit will cut a
clean line. A pilot bit and straight edge will help provide a clean line.


9. Score with a Utility Knife – Score the cut line with a utility
knife.


10. Buy a Panel Scoring Setup – Some saws can be fitted with a
plywood panel scoring setup and are ideal if you have to cut a lot of plywood. The setup consists of a smaller blade that scores the
surface of the plywood before it reaches the cutter.

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Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows

Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows

These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with vinyl windows using the retrofit style of window frame. This is particularly true in the west, and specifically, in California. The number one arguement that I have heard against using the retrofit method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that's true if you don't do it properly. But, if you do a complete tearout of your old window down to the studs, you're going to have water leak issues there as well if you don't install the new window properly. So I think that arguement is, well, all wet. So, let me tell you the best way to install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.

There is an old song that goes, "It never rains in California, but girl don't they warn ya, it pours, man it pours". For those of you in California, you know how true this is. While California doesn't get a lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets due to the close proximity to the ocean. So, you want to be sure that your windows are well sealed. If you are installing retrofit frames against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right on the outside face of the old window frame, all the way around. Latex caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to get the best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending on the number of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up. You pay approximately $1 for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and $4 or more for a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window, depending on the size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable part of your installation is the top of the window, because gravity will have the water running down from the roof to the ground. It's not likely that water is going to find it's way through the sides or bottom. So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one with the silicone, and the other with the acrylic caulk. I would run the silicone accross the top of the old frame, and caulk the sides and bottom. Then, put your new window into the opening and have a helper hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it into place. After you have the window completely installed, your final step should be to caulk where the retrofit lip meets the stucco. Here again, I used to use white silicone on the top, and caulk on the sides and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration. After about a week, check the sealant around each window for signs of cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps that were larger in some areas than in others. If you don't force the caulk into the gap to completely fill it, the caulk can sag before drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that you see. You can check the silicone on top as well, but because silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn't see any cracks there.

OK, what if the replacement windows are going between wood trim surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and trimming it to fit between the wood, then you still apply the heavy bead to the old frame before installing the window. But, instead of sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco, you seal where it meets the wood. Then, you want to be sure to seal above the window, where the top piece of wood meets the stucco. Again, use silicone up there. Now, no water can run down the stucco wall and get under the top piece of wood. Sometimes, though, you might decide not to use a retrofit style frame between the wood, choosing a block replacement frame instead. If you choose to do it this way, you have to add trim to the outside. You still want to apply the sealant to the old frame, then apply your trim so it contacts the new window as well as the sealant on the old frame.

If you follow these procedures, you won't have to worry about any water penetrating into your home, I don't care how hard it pours!


About the Author

John Rocco has been installing
replacement windows since 1978.
To learn more, visit How To Install Windows